Forging a Flesh Fork

written By Bill Clemens in the November / December 2007 Hammer & Tong

The following is based on a demonstration by Ed Grove, a blacksmith from New England. Ed demonstrated this method of forging the tines of a fork while demonstrating at a MASA Early American Wrought Iron Conference several years ago in Dover Delaware.

For any of you that have tried to forge a fork by splitting the end of a rectangular bar, opening it up and finding that you neck down or thin the transition point between the split tines and the main bar like this:

Try this method and I think you’ll be pleased at the results. If you’ve never tried making a fork, then this is the method you want to use. Since trying this method, I’ve never had a problem making fork tines with a smooth transition between the shank and the tines.

Begin with rectangular stock, I typically use 1/4” by 3/4” or 1/4” by 1” Stock.

Forge a Blunt taper on the end of the bar. The taper should be about ½ the length that you want the tines and still wide enough at the point to allow easy splitting.

Fuller the bar behind the taper using a spring fuller, guillotine fuller, or one side at a time using your hammer and the edge of the anvil.

Forge the bar to a uniform thickness behind these fuller marks long enough to allow placing it vertically in the vise jaws.

Next mark and split the tapered end using a chisel or if you prefer a hack saw.

Place the heated bar in the vise and open the split tines by first using a chisel and then your hammer. Notice that the material at the transition between the tine and the shank is the thickest part of the fork and will allow the tines to be opened while maintaining the thickness needed at the transition to the shank.

Continue until the tines are flat on the vise and perpendicular to the shank. Avoid continuing to hammer once the tines are flat on the vise, as this could thin them.

Now taper the tines on the face of the anvil. A soapstone mark on the face of the anvil at the desired length will allow you to make the tines symmetrical. Remember to taper the tines square, rounding them only when the desired length has been achieved. Any filing or sanding of the tines that is desired or needed can be done easily now before the tines are bent back parallel to each other.

Form the fork by bending the tines over the horn of the anvil.

When the tines are parallel and symmetric, use the horn to curve the tines slightly upward

Once you’re satisfied with the tines, you can begin working on the shank. Be careful when working on the shank near the fork, not to overheat the tines and burn the tips. Quench them as necessary. The shank can be rectangular or square.

You can also round the end

A decorative transition can also be forged

Finally complete the handle end. A typical handle is shown here with the rectangular stock beveled with a raised ridge in the middle and a rounded tapered loop for hanging the fork.

Other options for finishing the handle end for hanging:

Other possible ends if the fork will not be hung:

Find an example of a fork that you like and try to copy it, or create a design on your own. Since the fork is intended to be used with food, the finish should be food safe. Typical finishes include beeswax or cooking oil. With beeswax applied hot and baked in an oven the fork will take on a dark bronze to black color. A light coat of cooking oil applied hot will harden better than beeswax and will only slightly darken the metal. Avoid a heavy application of oil as it will not harden and may become rancid with time. The fork should always be washed and dried immediately, reapplying a light coat of oil periodically.

-- RebStaup - 01 Feb 2008