“COAL FORGE POKER”

* Figure 1.:

To make this style of forge poker, start with 30” of 3/8” square hot rolled steel.

Step 1: Forge a 6-8” blade on one end:

Forge a short blunt point.

Fig 2 Under Construction

Mark 8" on the anvil so you know the length of flat blade you need to achieve. Flatten the last 8" on the diamond. Start at the tip and work back as it will lengthen, although you are only trying to flatten and widen the steel. (Pay special attention to how you hold the stock. If you do not pay attention, your hand will tend to turn the stock, so that it is flat to the anvil and before you know it, you are no longer forging the blade "on the diamond" The goal here is to have 2 opposite corners of the 3/8" square steel become to the 2 edges of the blade.

* Figure 3.:

This is an opportunity to use the cross peen to forge metal to the side. Use the peen by hammering from the center out toward the edges. Think of the peen as a rolling pin, rolling out pie crust. Go for an even symmetrical shape. If bulges appear along the edges, turn the blade up and gently hammer them back in. As necessary go back and re-establish the point.

Cool the ENTIRE piece with water. This blade end will now be the holding end for the next step. Be especially careful about steel you can not get into the slack tub. Use the drip can to cool that part of the steel that will not fit down into the water. (If water evaporates off of the steel, the steel is too hot to touch.) THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT, THIS IS THE KIND OF SITUATION WHERE A BEGINNER WILL OFTEN BURN HIMSELF!!!

Step 2: Forge the handle:

Mark 12" inches on the anvil.

Take the last 12" and forge to either round or octagonal. You want a shape that will be comfortable in your hand.

• Figure 4.:
  

On the very end of the handle, forge out either a pig-tail or fishtail.

* Figure 5.:

Bend the 12" of handle into a "U" shape either over the edge of the anvil or in the vise. Visualize having the pigtail/fishtail kiss the point where the handle ends and the rest of the shaft begins.

* Figure 6.:

Working off the very tip of the anvil, make the very end of the "U" bulge out and the rest of the handle touching.

Pulling the base of the "U" against the very tip of the horn, strike just off the horn, working both sides to form an "onion dome". Try to get a symmetrical curve on both sides.

* Figure 7.:

Cool the ENTIRE piece with water. Be especially careful about steel you can not get into the slack tub.

Step 3: Twist the shaft

Visualize where the goose neck bend will occur and below that section but a twist in the shaft of the poker. This can be a simple twist or a decorative twist. Pay attention to the orientation of the handle and blade as you finish the twist.

* Figure 8.:

Cool the ENTIRE piece with water. Be especially careful about the steel you can not get into the slack tub.

Step 4: Put a goose neck bend just below the blade.

Heat 4" to 6" of the shaft, just below the blade.

Lay the shaft on the anvil with the heated section extending over the far side of the anvil. Note the orientation of the handle to the way the bend will form.

Strike down, preferably with a straight peen hammer, right next to the edge of the anvil, but off the edge, onto the heated steel that is off the anvil. With the 2nd and 3rd blows strike in towards the side of the anvil. The section hit should fold down and the blade should fold up.

Finish the bend into a "U" shape over the tip of the anvil horn.

* Figure 9.:

Step 5: Completion of the project

Using the vise, "tweak" the poker to get everything straight and lined up. Wire brush as necessary.

-- AlbinDrzewianowski - 02 Jan 2010